Repeat the process for removing each hub assembly and all of the bearings. Part 2. Wipe off all the old lubricant from the spindle shaft and hub with a rag. Use a spare rag to wipe off as much grease as you can from the outside of the spindle shaft.
Do the same for the inside of the hub assembly. Clean the spindle shaft and hub assembly with kerosene or solvent. Soak a clean rag in kerosene or grease solvent and wipe the spindle clean.
Place the hub in a container and fill it with kerosene or solvent. Let it soak for a few minutes, then use a rag to wipe off the rest of the grease from inside the hub. If not, wipe them dry with a clean rag and let them completely air dry before applying new grease. Kerosene can cause skin irritation after prolonged contact with skin, so wear a pair of rubber gloves while cleaning to avoid this. You will also need to dispose of dirty kerosene at a hazardous waste collection site. Apply a light coating of grease to the spindle shaft.
Stick 2 of your fingers in a bit of new wheel bearing grease and scoop up a small dab of it. Wipe it all over the clean spindle shaft to lightly lubricate it. Pack the new bearings with wheel bearing grease. Remove your new bearings from their packaging. Fill the palm of your non-dominant hand with grease.
Pack grease under the balls of the bearings by smashing and scraping the large side of the bearings against the grease in your palm to force it inside until you see grease coming out the small side. Fill the hub with wheel bearing grease. Scoop some grease up in your hand. Generously apply it to the entire inside of the hub where the bearings will sit. Place the inner bearing in the hub and put the new seal on.
Put the hub face-down on your work surface and insert the inner bearing small-end-first. Place the seal on top so the lip is facing the bearing and tap it in gently with a hammer until it is flush. It needs to face the bearing so it holds the grease in. Insert the outer bearing. Flip the hub over so it is face-up on your work surface. Insert the outer bearing small-end-first. Part 3. Slide the hub assembly back onto the spindle shaft. Push the hub all the way back onto the spindle shaft.
If not, then set it down again and apply a little more grease to the shaft. Put the washer and adjusting nut back on.
Slide the washer back over the end of the spindle shaft so it covers the outer bearing. Start screwing the adjusting nut back on by hand, then finish tightening it with an adjustable wrench. Slide a new cotter pin in to lock the nut.
Bend the cotter pin with pliers to lock it in place. Hammer a new dust cap onto the hub. Place the dust cap over the adjustment nut. Tap it with a hammer around the entire perimeter to secure it in place. Reattach the wheels to the trailer. Slide the wheels back over the hubs and put the lug nuts back on with your lug wrench.
Bearing Adjustment This video demonstrates the Installation Process for the Stemco Pro-Torq spindle nut, including proper torque spec and back off procedure.
When the Pro-Torq adjustment procedure is followed, wheel bearing end play adjustment of 0. Acceptable end play is 0. Wheel End Warning Failure to follow proper wheel end procedures can cause a wheel-off situation, leading to bodily injury or death. We do our best to ensure the most accurate and current installation information is represented on the Trailer Technician site. However, you should always consult the manufacturer to confirm the correct process and torque specs.
Step 2 Thread the Nut Onto the Axle Thread the nut onto the axle until hand tight against the bearing. Tires are attached with studs to the hub assembly. The hub assembly then fits on the axle, which connects the tire component to the rest of the car. Because the wheel hub is the bridge between the tire and the entire vehicle, if one of its parts breaks down, it creates a ripple effect.
That could include problems such as impaired steering or a broken axle. What's going on inside of that wheel hub assembly?
A hub isn't a standalone piece of hardware. Instead, it needs a handful of other parts to do its job. The trailer wheel hub looks sort of like a metal donut that slides onto the axle. On either side of the hub, you have the inner and outer bearings. You can learn more about wheel bearings in How Trailer Bearings Work. In brief, the bearings are cylindrical pieces that are packed with grease that reduce friction during tire spin. A castle nut at the center of the hub assembly holds the hub and the bearings in place on the axle.
A sticklike piece of metal called a cotter pin then secures the castle nut. The bearings in the hub must stay adequately greased to reduce the heat by-product as much as possible. Also, dirt and water that contaminate the hub can impede tire rotation. For that reason, a grease cap , which is sometimes referred to as a dust cap , fits over the outside of the trailer wheel hub to keep the grease in and the impurities out.
So with all of these parts, how do you go about removing or replacing a trailer wheel hub? We'll discuss installation on the next page. It shouldn't take much manpower to assemble or disassemble, although, you'll want to keep track of all the parts you're handling. A standard toolbox with a hammer, pliers and wrench should sufficiently arm you for the task. You'll also want bearing grease on hand and, if you're performing regular maintenance on a hub assembly, a solvent to dissolve old grease on the bearings.
When you're purchasing a trailer hub assembly, there's some valuable information to know in order to make the correct selection. Wheel hubs aren't one-size-fits-all parts. Before you buy, you should:. Once you have your wheel hub assembly with the correct specifications, it's time to install. There are a couple of tips for hub installation to prevent later problems with your tires. First, spread a thin coating of the bearing grease on the inside of the hub before you slide it onto the axle.
You don't want a lot on there -- just enough to help it slip on easily. Also, when you tighten the assembly in place, don't overdo it. If you adjust your castle nut correctly, the hub shouldn't move more than a.
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