Cut off the excess wire. Unroll the chain link fence material next to the post. Slide a tension bar through the last row of diamonds at one end of the chain link. Lift up one end of the chain link material so that it is vertical and pressing against one of the terminal posts. With the ratchet wrench set, attach the end tension bar to the tension bands on the terminal post. Lift the rest of the chain link material up so that it is vertical all the way across from post to post.
Loosely fix wire ties across the top to hold the chain link material on the top rail. Do not tighten the ties. The goal is to have ties that are loose enough to allow the chain link material to slide when you tighten it in later steps.
At the other end of the chain link, slide a tension bar vertically through the diamonds about 3 feet from the end. Add an extra tension band to the terminal post.
This band will later be removed. Hook a stretcher bar to the tension bar. Hook up the come-along tool from the tension bar to the extra tension band on the terminal post. Slowly pump the lever of the come-along tool to draw the end of the chain link material toward the terminal post. When it is tight enough, cut off the excess chain link material and remove the come-along tool, the temporary tension band, the temporary tension bar, and the stretcher bar.
Weave a tension bar through the last set of diamonds on the chain link material. With the ratchet wrench set, tighten the tension bar onto the post's tension bands. Twist wire ties from the chain link to the posts at every 12 inches.
Along the top rail, twist wire ties about every 2 feet along the entire run. Attach at the lower tension wire about every 2 feet, as well. Because building a chain link fence requires you to learn how to work with unusual tools and materials, it's sometimes best to call a professional fence company to install your fence.
Rights and obligations of owners. California Legislative Information. Actively scan device characteristics for identification. Use precise geolocation data. Select personalised content. Create a personalised content profile. Measure ad performance. Select basic ads. Create a personalised ads profile. Select personalised ads.
Apply market research to generate audience insights. Measure content performance. Develop and improve products. If you do not have a plat of survey, you may want to get your property surveyed by a professional. Finally, ensure all underground utility lines are clearly marked. Call your local utility locating service to mark the public utilities in your yard — the main electrical, gas, and cable lines for your home.
If you have any additional utilities, these are private utilities, and they are up to you to locate and mark. Marking utilities is critical to maintaining on-site safety while digging. Chain link fencing in the U. Measure the perimeter of your yard to determine how many rolls you need. These include corner posts and one on either side of each gate. Do the math to determine how many of these you need. Gates are sized to include the space between posts and gate.
For instance, a 4-foot gate will require exactly 4 feet between posts. Using a tape measure and stakes, lay out on the ground where your fence will go. It helps to mark the corners first and run a string between them to ensure a straight line. Then mark the location of each fence post with a stake.
Use a post-hole digger to create a hole for each post. Each post hole should measure three times wider than the post diameter, and the depth should equal one-third the length of the post. Buy at Amazon. Use paint to mark the ground line of each post. The top of each end post should be 2 inches above the top line of the fence. The top of each intermediate post should be 2 inches below. Starting with one of your terminal posts, set the post in the center of its hole, and position it to a plumb position using a level and plumb line.
Secure it in place, and fill the hole around it with wet concrete. Be sure to slope the concrete away from the post to allow water to run away from the base. This helps prevent future heaving and allows the holes to be back-filled with dirt for a more aesthetically pleasing install. Repeat with the remaining terminal posts. Line posts are set in the same manner as terminal posts. If you plan on installing privacy slats or another type of material that will increase wind load, consider using 8' or 6' post spacing.
Also consider upgrading the framework, i. Step 4 - Measure diagonally between the two marks and adjust lines to achieve 5'. Note: For greater accuracy, use measurements in multiples of , such as , etc.
Step 1 - Depending on the geographical location, fence height, and fencing materials used, post hole size may vary. In general for residential chain link fences, dig holes 6" in diameter by 30" deep or below frost line in your area.
Another rule of thumb is to dig the holes three times the diameter of the post, i. Typically gate post holes are dug larger in diameter and deeper to withstand the additional stress of a moving gate. The guide string may be removed temporarily prior to excavating to prevent cutting it. Be sure to replace it as it was originally stretched.
Chain link fence posts holes can be dug by hand with post hole diggers and spud bars, small gas powered augers, or skid steers with hydraulic augers.
Size your auger bit accordingly to the height and grade of fence materials to be installed. Holes next to buildings often must be dug by hand. Take caution as drain pipes and other utilities can be located near foundations. Some obstructions such as the one above can be difficult to deal with. A post may be bent in this case to miss the pipe. Measure the depth of the bend first. Notice how the post remains tight to the house, yet is still dug to depth with a sufficient concrete footer.
If the hole needs 'shaved' or moved, do it now. If holes are shallow because you hit an object you can't remove, 'bell' the hole at the bottom. This further anchors the concrete footer which will support your fence. If necessary, move the hole slightly to miss any obstructions. This will change your post spacing. However, there is no harm in the case of line posts. If you must move it more than a couple of feet, consider installing an extra post midway in the enlarged space.
Other ways of dealing with obstructions include bending posts below ground and welding plates on to posts to secure to large rocks. Check hole location prior to filling with concrete mix. The hole should not be centered perfectly under string line; it should be offset slightly so that the post will be centered in the concrete footer. If necessary put post in empty hole and check plumb with a level. The post should be plumb to the string with approx.
If not, fence post hole will need 'shaved'. Once fence posts holes have been dug and cleaned out, check that each and every hole is in the correct spot.
If you cannot tell visibly, place post in hole and plumb post. Fence Tip: Be sure to dig fence post holes to the proper depth and diameter for your region. Northern regions have frost depths deeper than the southern part of the country. Step 3 - Mix concrete with water using pre-mixed bag. Go easy on the water. Mix should look like thick gray mud, not like Mom's watered-down chili.
If it doesn't pile up on the shovel, it's too thin; add more mix to dry it up. If you are mixing from scratch using aggregate like gravel, limestone or sea shells, concrete sand and Portland cement, mix 3 to 4 parts shovels of aggregate to 2 parts sand and 1 part cement.
Smaller fence projects are often set using a premixed bagged concrete. Often sold at do-it-yourself stores, 40, 60, and 80 pound bags are usually readily available for your fence project. Figure your fence post concrete requirements by using HooverFence. Premixed bags of concrete may be mixed by hand in a wheelbarrow with a shovel, or with a gas powered, or electric powered cement mixer.
Mix concrete to a 'thick milkshake' like consistency. Do not mix too wet, or the soup-like texture will cause posts to sink, or the concrete may not set at all.
For small chain link fence jobs where the job can be set and stretched in the same day, using a small amount of Quik Rok, or other brand of fast setting hydraulic cement with regular premix cement can save time and an extra trip to the jobsite. Quik Rok, fast setting hydraulic cement is available in 5 gallon pails and is a powder like material that can be used alone for small holes core drilling in cement.
You can also mix about a shovel full of this baking flour like material in with a wheelbarrow full of regular cement. Fence Tip: Some fence spec jobs require concrete footers to be poured to the top, capped and trowelled. Use a pointing trowel for better appearance. Step 4 - Mark post grade mark. End, corner and gate posts should be marked at the height of the fence plus 1 inch; 49" for a 4' fence, 61" for a 5' fence, etc.
Mark intermediate or line posts at height of the fence minus 3 inches; 45" for 4' fence, 57" for 5' fence, etc. When you add your line post cap and top rail, the height will be accurate. Grade marks represent the bottom of the fence and are essential in setting posts to the correct depth. If you bury the post hiding the grade mark by 1", you will need to trench to bury the fence here.
If your grade mark is above ground by 3", your fence will be off the ground by three inches and you better plan to cut it off later or fill under the fence if a tight fit is necessary. For chain link fences, line posts intermediate posts should be marked with a grade mark at 3" less than the height of fence being installed.
Here a 6' high fence is being installed. Line posts are marked at 5'-9". Fence Tip: Vinyl coated chain link fabric is more elastic than galvanized mesh and can 'shrink' slightly when stretched. For chain link fences, terminal posts, i. For a 6' high chain link fence, mark posts at 6'-1".
Fence Tip: Place a spare piece of tubing, or post that has not yet been set on the top of gate posts after setting and level these posts to one another. Gates are usually perfectly square. Step 5 - Fill holes with wet cement. Do not fill too many and risk having the concrete cure before you can 'stick' your posts.
Do not fill holes to the the top with concrete, leave the concrete down ". Filling the hole completely with cement is a common mistake. If this is done, water will collect under this 'lip' of concrete.
When it freezes, the ground will literally squeeze the concrete footer and 'heave' the post up, much like squeezing a tube of toothpaste. Once fence post holes have been dug and cleaned out be sure to clean out post holes of loose dirt and debris , shovel cement into holes until they are near full. Leave cement down from the ground surface grade approx. Holes should also be larger in diameter at the bottom than at top, 'bell-shaped'. Holes shaped like a carrot can heave prematurely.
Fence post holes can be filled practically as fast as the cement batches can be mixed and poured. Often another person can follow the person filling the holes and 'stick' the fence posts.
Fill post holes with concrete mix. Do not fill holes completely. This may cause posts to heave prematurely. Step 6 - Stick Posts. Most chain link posts can be installed by actually pouring the cement in the hole first and then 'sticking' the post in the wet cement. Simply push the post into the cement mix in the center of the hole. Set terminal posts as tight to the string as possible without touching the string.
Set line posts approx. This will account for the differences in fence post diameters. Another way of setting posts is for one person to hold the post plumb to the string line while another shovels concrete mix around the post.
The first method explained is actually easier, a more efficient way of setting fence posts, and assures there is concrete around the post, under it, as well as in it. Chain link fence posts should be 'stuck' down to their respective grade marks and plumbed with guide string. Backfill with loose dirt and step gently on dirt surrounding posts to help hold them too height.
If posts sink on you, concrete is too wet, or holes have filled with water. You can and should put your posts in their holes and check them to the string line with a level if you're not sure post holes have been dug in the right spot.
It can be very frustrating if holes have not been checked for accuracy, then filled with cement. You'll find yourself trying to stick posts into the dirt surround the dug hole, but buried in cement. If this happens, pull post, redig hole, and try to catch up with your crew! On sloped terrain, it is sometimes necessary to set posts intentionally high, with grade marks exposed. The chain link height is actually taller when measuring diagonally.
If in doubt, measure square with grade to help gauge your finished height of the fabric. Chain link is remarkably versatile and can be installed on any terrain. Fence Tip: When in doubt, leave post high and cut off later. This is much easier than trying to extend the height of a chain link fence post! After chain link fence posts have been 'stuck', check cement level is correct.
You should put more cement in if concrete levels are too low. Fence Tip: Avoid pushing away your guide string to fill holes with cement if another is using it to 'stick' posts! Set posts to the depth of the grade mark first. Be sure to set fence posts tight to any buildings if animal containment is important.
Step 7 - After setting each post to grade, backfill with dirt and step on the backfill to hold the post to height.
Repeat for all posts in this length of fence. After 'sticking' post in hole with concrete mix, backfill with loose dirt. Plumb post while stepping on dirt around post. This will help hold the post plumb in the hole. Step 8 - Sight posts. To 'sight' in posts, stand at end of length of fence and look across the tops of the posts.
Adjust heights of posts as necessary to account for gradual slopes and changes in grade. The goal is to have smooth transitions between posts and to avoid sharp changes. This is easiest for two people to accomplish: one persons sights posts while the other adjusts and checks for post plumb.
Be sure to check plumb on each post after adjusting and watch the grade mark as noted above. Once posts have been set to grade, sight across the tops of the set posts and raise or lower them slightly to smooth out the top of the fence. Keep in mind, if you bury your grade mark slightly on one or more posts, plan to trench this same amount for the chain link fabric. The grade marks represent the bottom of the chain link fence. If your grade mark is 4" off the ground, so will be your fence and you may be filling underneath.
Note: Although most fences are simply installed to grade, or flow with the contour of the land, some applications would be better set perfectly level, i. If this is the case, sighting with grade marks, using a string line with a level, or a transom will help immensely. Step 9 - Install gate posts with the exact opening size as recommended by gate supplier or manufacturer. The opening size is the distance between the two gate posts, inside to inside.
If possible make the tops of gate posts level to each other by placing a post across the tops of the posts and checking with a level. If the ground slopes off sharply under the gate, set the gate posts to grade. It won't look proper to make them level. View of bottom brace band for bottom wire, and four tension bands for a 5' high chain link fence.
View is from the inside of fence. Notice tension bands are offset so that the flat side is facing out. End post with brace band bolted with a rail end cup. All nuts face towards the inside of the chain link fence enclosure.
0コメント